
Adding A Baseboard Extension

Adding A Baseboard Extension
Like many modellers, my model fleet is steadily growing & rapidly need more tracks adding to my fiddle yard to accommodate more trains. The time has now come to add an extension to the baseboard. So in this article, we’ll look at adding a baseboard extension & that is also lightweight but strong.
My lower level of the layout contains the fiddle yard, storage loops, reverse loop, test track & DCC programming track. A suitable location for the fiddle yard expansion within the reverse loop was chosen as this can accommodate reasonable length trains of around 6 to 7 coaches plus locomotive.
The material I’ve used is 6mm exterior grade plywood with 2″ by 1″ softwood. Built using a method by John Chivers of the Barry and Penarth model railway club for making lightweight baseboards. Basically, it’s a form of plywood sandwich which is formed using two lengths of thin plywood with pine spacers along the length. On the corners, overlap the ends which gives strength and a nice finish.
Having measured up, I visited my local timber merchant & got them to cut all the pieces to save me time. So now we’ll take a look the assembly & installation. Tools needed are an electric screwdriver, level, saw, g-clamps, pencil for marking, tape measure, angle set square, PVA wood glue. Other items needed are L-shaped shelf brackets, various sizes of woodscrews & plenty of cups of tea!!
Starting off the existing baseboard side, a 65mm deep 6mm exterior grade plywood cut to suit the length I required, is glued & screwed onto the existing plywood sandwich frame. In the photo, you can see this piece fixed into place.
Starting off the existing baseboard side, a 65mm deep 6mm exterior grade plywood cut to suit the length I required, is glued & screwed onto the existing plywood sandwich frame. In the photo, you can see this piece fixed into place.
Next, take another a 65mm deep 6mm exterior grade plywood cut to suit the same length as the previous piece, this is glued on to the 2″ x 1″ softwood blocks. This as you can see In the photo on the right forms a plywood sandwich type beam, which is strong but also lightweight. Make sure that all the blocks are square flush with the edges of the plywood.
Note at either end one side is longer than the other, this is to fit the angled sections on my existing baseboard.
Having made the front side section shown above, it was now time to test fit it on the layout. Several angled L-shape brackets were screwed to the existing baseboard legs. All the L-shaped brackets are fitted so that they are all level with each other. The Plywood beam then test fitted to make sure it sits flush & level. The brackets were adjusted where needed.
Next, some more 2″ x 1″ softwood blocks are glued & screwed to the plywood beam as shown on the right. These are for to attaching the cross braces too.
Yet some more 2″ x 1″ softwood blocks are glued & screwed to this time the plywood beam on the existing baseboard. Checking that each block is level & flush with the plywood top edge.
I then glued & screwed some cross brace pieces as shown on the right. These will attach on to the softwood blocks on the plywood beam. The baseboard top was test fitted on top to make sure all the cross braces are level.
The plywood beam is then fitted onto the cross brace pieces. The softwood blocks on the beam fitting flush behind the cross braces as shown. Again the cross braces are glued & screwed onto the softwood blocks. The plywood beam being checked regularly to make sure it remains level during fitting.
Moving on to the installation of the baseboard top. Before fitting the top, drill any holes in the cross braces for wiring to run through.
Next glue, drill & screw the baseboard top on to plywood beam where the softwood blocks are located. This gives you plenty of wood for the screws to bite into. Clamp with a G-Clamp if needed whilst doing this to hold the baseboard top temporarily in place.
Next, a removable side barrier was fitted. Again 6mm exterior grade plywood was used. This is held on to the baseboard with plastic split cabinet blocks, which allow the barrier to be removed for track maintenance etc.
Having completed the build & install of the baseboard extension, time to lay the track. Here I’m using Peco code 100 flex track & Peco code 100 Electrofrog curved points. Peco does downloadable, print off full-scale track templates for their range of points. I’ve used the templates to determine the best position for the points to maximize the new storage sidings. To aid the laying of the trackwork I also use Tracksetta track Templates which we stock & can found via the button at the end of this article.
Once the track was laid, end stops were then fitted to the siding ends. Power feeds soldered to the track & connected up to the power bus from the DCC controller. Everything was then tested to make sure all works fine.
Once happy all is working as it should, the first trains take up position in the new storage track extension. As you can see it’ll comfortably take a five-car Super Voyager with room for another 3 car DMU on the same line. This now gives me more trains to be able to call upon during a running session.
Happy modelling.
Great advice.
Thank you, well worth building to this method, as you can make the legs to fit within the beams, plus the weight advantage but still being sturdy & strong makes for a great baseboard.