Building The LX200-OO 50ft Yard Lamp Kit
A Look At Building The LX200-OO 50ft Yard Lamp Kit
Another recent new kit into the Scalemodelscenery.co.uk kit range is the LX200-OO 50ft Yard Lamp Tower Kit. An ideal project for an afternoon or evenings modelling.
Kit contents
The kit comes in a recyclable clear packet, which contains one set of instructions including kit parts map, & two kit parts sheets. The images show the kit contents.
Kit uses
For use in railway yards & depots, industrial locations, dock areas, etc. The time period for this kit is the 1960s onwards & is based upon the BR ones that were at the Tinsley Yard in South Yorkshire. The kit is a non-working version but a working lit version due for release very shortly & is currently undergoing testing pre-production testing.
Let’s get started…
Start by familiarising yourself with the kit contents. You’ll need the following tools & glues:
- Sharp craft knife with a fresh sharp blade
- Cutting Mat
- Tweezers
- Roket Card Glue
- Sanding stick (Nail file emery board will do)
- Steel Ruler
Kit Build Options
The kit has two build options:
- Type A as seen on the left-hand side in the image right. This has the ladder at an angled slope to the tower.
- Type B as seen on the right-hand side in the image right. Ladder mounted directly on the side of the tower.
We are going to build option B with the ladder on the side of the tower.
First carefully cut & remove Part A from the parts sheet. Sand flush any of the part pips that held the part onto the parts sheet flush.
You’ll notice that on one long side there are rectangle tabs & other the other side there are rectangle slots. These are for joining the tower up as you’ll see shortly.
If you flip part A over you’ll see the joining tabs (marked in the photo right by orange circles). These joining tabs are flush with one side only, this is the side that must go to the inside of the tower. Do not cut through these joining tabs!
Place a steel ruler along the first joint line on the inside of the tower. Carefully lift & fold up the first side of the tower to form a 90-degree right angle. Take your time whilst doing this first fold.
Next apply a bead of Deluxe Materials Roket Card Glue along the inside edge of the first fold joint. Allow time for the glue to set. Roket Card glue is quick setting, so after few mins move on to the next stage.
Place the steel ruler along the next fold edge, & taking time & care, carefully lift & fold the second side to form another 90 deg angle as shown right.
As before, run a bead of Roket Card Glue along the inside of the folded joint line as shown right. Allow a few minutes for the glue to set before moving on to the next stage.
Before folding the next joint, run a bead of Roket Card glue as shown on the right along the inside next joint.
Now carefully fold up the last side to form another 90 deg angle. Allow a few minutes for the glue to set.
Apply Roket Card Glue along the tab edge as shown on the right. Then carefully fold down to form a box shape. The tabs must sit within the slots to give a flush corner edge joint. Allow time for the glue to set before moving onto the next stage. Model grips/clamps can be used at this stage to firmly hold the tower section sides whilst the glue sets.
For further strength, apply a bead of Roket Card Glue to all of the outside corner joints of the tower as shown on the right.
Cut & remove parts B & C from the kit parts sheet as shown on the right. Sand flush any pips on the sides of the parts.
Next glue the three parts B & C together to form a stack of three. Make sure that the laser engraved three small circles are all in line with each other.
As we are building Type B option we need to use the cage part number D2 as shown on the right. Carefully cut & remove the cage from the parts sheet. Sand flush any pips on the part sides.
As we are building Type B option we need to use the cage part number D2 as shown on the right. Carefully cut & remove the cage from the parts sheet. Sand flush any pips on the part sides.
As we are building the type B option, for the top of the cage select part E2. Cut & remove this from the parts sheet. Carefully sand flush any pips off the parts side.
Next place the cage on to the platform & run a bead of glue around the inside & outside of the cage base. The cage needs to sit on top of the platform & with the entrance gap facing the mesh grille access plate.
Now glue the cage top ring section upon the top of the cage as shown right. Allow time for the glue to fully set.
Cut & remove the tower base section as shown on the right. Sand flush any pips flush on the part sides.
Apply Roket Card Glue to the bottom legs of the tower The wider end. The tower is tapered with the narrower end being the top of the tower.
Next, insert the glued ends into four corner holes on the base as shown right. Make sure the tower sits straight & true.
Tip: Use the tip of your knife to gently ease the tower bottom tabs into the slot holes.
Apply an extra bead of glue around each of the four corners & allow time for the glue to set.
Now carefully insert the top section of the tower into the recess section on the platform base.
Take note that the external hoop & mesh on the platform must face towards the same direction as the tab on the base, as shown on the right.
On the ladder there are small recess slots on both sides, as shown on the right. This is where the ladder loops locate.
Apply a small amount of glue into each slot on the ladder sides & sit the ladder hoop as shown on the right into each slot. Use a Lego brick to set the loop square & at 90 deg to the ladder.
Repeat with each ladder loop so that you end up with the ladder looking like in the image right. Apply an extra small bead of glue to each loop where it joins the ladder for added extra strength.
Now test fit the ladder on to the side of the tower. Make sure the top end of the ladder with the hoop goes towards the platform end of the tower. Mark off as shown on the right with pen or pencil, the position for the bend in the ladder. The bend should be just below or on where the horizontal cross brace on the tower is.
Place a steel ruler across the two marks on the ladder, carefully bend the ladder upwards slightly as shown right.
Now apply a bead of Roket Card Glue along the back of the ladder as shown. Don’t glue the back of the bent section of ladder.
Now apply a bead of Roket Card Glue along the back of the ladder as shown. Don’t glue the back of the bent section of ladder.
Now place the glued ladder on to the tower. Make sure the top of the ladder sits flush under the tower platform. The top loop of the ladder safety cage should be in line with the top loop on the platform safety cage.
For the bottom section of the ladder insert into the two slot holes in the platform base.
Apply a little Roket Card Glue around the ladder where it enters the mast base. We’ve also applied a little glue on the underside of the mast base to add extra strength.
Starting with the central ladder cage strip, apply glue into the recesses on the outside of the ladder hoops. Then fit the strip in place upon the glue recesses.
Repeat with the two ladder cage strips on either side of the ladder safety cage, apply glue into the recesses on the outside of the ladder hoops. Then fit the strip in place upon the glue recesses.
For the final two side safety strips closest to the mast, these will need to be trimmed. These fit right up under the mast platform. In the photo right, mark off the bottom of the cage on the strip & cut the strip. Then glue into place into the recesses on the hoops.
Now place a second dummy gantry light onto the glued one to form a stack of two. Make sure all edges are true & flush & square.
On the platform, you’ll notice three laser engraved circles. These are locations for the gantry lights.
Apply glue to the front lower section of the gantry light & pace into the cage as shown right. Apply a little extra glue around the bottom of the gantry light mast for added strength.
You can paint the mast in any colour you so wish. Here we’ve usual a grey primer aerosol can paint which only takes a few minutes to spray paint.
For the dummy lights, apply a little PVA glue (or Aquamagic) around what would be the glass lens. This will dry clear to leave a shinney glass-like finish which simulates the glass lens.
Before we finish & I know we’ve been asked about this kit. Here’s a sneak preview of the working lit version which is currently undergoing some testing prior to some tweaks before going on sale soon.
Happy modelling
looks like a fantastic kit
Very easy to build 🙂
Nice job Iain, clearly explained as usual.
Thank you 🙂
Any Idea when the working version will be available? That is if I haven’t missed it.
Hi Johnt, It hasn’t been released yet. We release further details in due course soon as the production working version is ready. Kind regards Iain
Thanks Iain. Waiting in anticipation. John
Great item when built. A bit fiddly at times but looks great.