First Adventures In Re-Numbering Locomotives

The first victim… loco is an A4 Hornby steam locomotive. This locomotive was bought second hand & had been renamed, but still needed to be renumbered. Fellow SMS team member Dylan, provided me with the correct decal set of locomotive numbers. The decals are of the waterslide transfer type. So in the photo opposite right can be seen the model as supplied with the factory printed number, this, of course, has to be removed before the decals can be fitted.

There are various ways to remove the factory-printed locomotive numbers, using substances such as T-Cut or IPA Alcohol applied on to a to Q tip. Using careful use of the Q tip, the printed numbers can be very carefully removed by rubbing. Care needs to be taken not to rub & remove too much of the paint whilst removing the numbers to the extent that the original colour of the plastic body moulding appears!!

The photos both right & below show some of the items mentioned above.

• T-Cut which can be picked up from any motorist’s shop such as Wilcos Motorsave, Halfords, online, etc.
• IPA Alcohol (or Rubbing Alcohol) can be found from chemists, online.
• Q tips can be found online, supermarkets, chemists, & some model supplies shops.

Another item I’m using is Humbrol Decalfix, which is purpose-made for fixing decals to models. Available online, model shops, some department stores such as Boyes, The Range, Hobby Craft & the like. Or direct from Humbrol themselves.

To protect the model, I’m using a Peco PL-70 loco cradle. Available from most good model railway shops. The cradle is made from foam material that doesn’t damage the loco body work.

Here I’m using a Q tip with IPA rubbing alcohol applied to the cotton tip. Using careful movements, rub the Q tip over the numbers you wish to remove. You’ll very quickly start to see the printed numbers start to fade as you rub over them.

I changed the Q tip regularly with a fresh tip with IPA. Once the numbers had been carefully removed. Another Q tip with IPA applied to it, was used to remove & clean where the paint from the numbers had been pushed forward by the Q Tips. I then used a clean soft microfibre cloth to remove any excess IPA debris from the removed printed numbers.

The process of removal of the remaining original loco numbers was then repeated on the opposite side of the loco, & also the front smokebox door number.

Next, I applied some Humbrol Decalfix over the area of the bodywork where the original numbers had been applied. I used a brush to do this, as shown in the photo opposite right.

The loco number waterslide decals were then carefully cut out from the transfer sheet. The decal was placed into the small dish with lukewarm water until the decal could start to be moved around on its backing sheet. At this point, the decal still on its backing sheet was removed from the dish of water.

The loco number waterslide decal was then carefully slid off the backing sheet onto the loco body side where the decal fix had been applied. 

I then used a cocktail stick to carefully move & position the decal into its correct position on the locomotive body side.

A piece of kitchen roll tissue was used to blot up any excess water left behind from the backing sheet, & around the decal. Take care note to move the decal whilst doing this. 

The decal was then left to dry & set for a few hours. The second fixing of Humbrol Decal fix was applied by brush over the decal to seal & protect the decal. Again, any excess Decalfix was removed by blotting with a piece of Kitchen roll tissue.

The process of applying was repeated with the other cabside number & smokebox door number decals.

The second loco up for renumbering was a Bachmann Class 46 Peak diesel locomotive. For this loco, I rediscovered as luck would have it, some suitable Presfix Decals I had kicking about in my modelling bits & bobs box.  So rather than ordering some water slide decals, I’ve taken this opportunity to try out the Presfix Decals as a comparison to the water slide type. The Presfix decals sheet I’m using is by HMRS Transfers. It’s the 4mm scale,  Sheet number 15 – BR (Blue Livery) loco & coach insigna. 

Presfix decals as the name implies, are pressed into place rather than the waterslide type decals which are slid into place.  

So like the A4 steam locomotive earlier, the original numbers on the loco needed to be removed first. Again, IPA rubbing alcohol & Q tips were used to rub away & remove the factory printed numbers. 

On this Bachmann Peak loco, I found part of the factory printed numbers quite stubborn to remove using the IPA rubbing alcohol & Q tips. Not wanting to rub away the factory paint job back to bare plastic, a phone call was made to a good friend of mine who has done many repaints & renumbering jobs. He recommended for the stubborn parts of the factory printed numbers, suggested using a small flat blade screwdriver to very carefully scrape away the stubborn parts of the factory printing.

Using very light pressure the stubborn parts of the factory printed numbers, were very carefully scraped away. A soft microfibre cloth was used to clean & wipe away the debris from the removal of the factory printed numbers. 

On this Bachmann Peak loco, I found part of the factory printed numbers quite stubborn to remove using the IPA rubbing alcohol & Q tips. Not wanting to rub away the factory paint job back to bare plastic, a phone call was made to a good friend of mine who has done many repaints & renumbering jobs. He recommended for the stubborn parts of the factory printed numbers, suggested using a small flat blade screwdriver to very carefully scrape away the stubborn parts of the factory printing.

Using very light pressure the stubborn parts of the factory printed numbers, were very carefully scraped away. A soft microfibre cloth was used to clean & wipe away the debris from the removal of the factory printed numbers. A Q tip was then dipped into some surgical spirit to wipe clean where the factory printed numbers had been, & another wipe over with a microfiber cloth. I then turn the loco over & set about removing the factory printed running number off the other side of the loco.

Once the numbers had been removed from the other side of the loco, I turned the loco over again, & a piece of masking tape was placed on the side of the loco to act as an alignment guide for the decals. The masking tape was set so that it was level. As shown in the photo opposite right.

Next, the numbers were then carefully cut out from the decals sheet. I cut close as possible to the decal numbers, making sure that the remaining decal numbers on the decals sheet remain intact.

Next, carefully lift the tissue with the knifepoint & peel away the backing paper. Then lay the transfer face down onto the required position on the locomotive side body. Now press very gently on the decal. If the position is quite right, lift & reposition the decal. Use a pair of tweezers for positioning the smaller decals. Once happy that the decal is in the final position, press firmly on the decal to fix it in place.

Then soak a tissue with water & place the soaked tissue on the decal to wet the backing material for around 20 to 30 seconds. The backing material can ten be peeled away using a pair of tweezers. Carefully blot dry the decal to remove any excess water.

Repeat the process for each decal, until all the required deal numbers have been fitted. Allow for a drying time between the fixing of each decal.

The decal can be sealed with a varnish after the application of the decals, this will help protect the decals. In my case, I used Humbrol Decalfix instead of the varnish, to protect & seal the decals. I brushed a layer of Humbrol Decalfix over the applied Presfix decals, making sure any excess Decalfix around the decals was wiped away. The Decalfix then allowed time to fully dry.

The whole process of applying & fixing the decals was repeated on the other side of the loco. Again, once completed, time was allowed for the Decalfix to fully dry out.

The loco was then given some further weathering, working off some reference photos to complete the job. 

Overall, it was a little bit daunting at first with removing the numbers, but with more practice overtime should build one’s confidence at having a go at doing renumbering. If thinking of having a go yourself but a little nervous or unsure, try practicing on one of those old models that can be found in the model shops rummage bargain bins. It’s worth looking online for any cheap old non-running locos sold as spares or repairs, as they can make excellent items to practice on.

A tip that I’ve seen done at some model shows, is to have locos that carry a different running number on each side of the loco. That way you can technically have two locos for the price of one, as generally you normally only see one side of the loco when running past.  

If you have any tips, hints on how you do your locomotive & rolling stock renumbering which you think will help fellow Railwaymodellers.com club members, be sure to share them in the comments section below.

Happy modelling.