Layout In A Box – Demo Micro Layout Project (part 14) The Stone Retaining Wall

The photo right, shows the Modern Brick Retaining Wall Download kit, this is to give you an idea of the download wall kit we’ll be using & adapting. It can be built to any height of your choice up to 110mm. (Maximum deck height 90mm).  We’ll be making it to a lower height to suit our layout. 

The photo right, shows the Modern Brick Retaining Wall Download kit, this is to give you an idea of the download wall kit we’ll be using & adapting. It can be built to any height of your choice up to 110mm. (Maximum deck height 90mm).  We’ll be making it to a lower height to suit our layout. 

The Modern Brick Retaining Wall also has coping stone sections. We’ll be using the coping stone sections, the base template layer, but instead of the brick sheets using the Ashlars stone sheets instead.

We first measured the length of wall section that we needed. For the height we measured from the upper deck level down to the baseboard top. On the wall template layer, this measurement was marked from the deck height marker line downwards (the bottem edge of the grey band section). This will give us the correct height wall from the baseboard right up to the top of the parapet wall. The two arrows in the photo right show the cut lines we’ve drawn on. The grey band towards the upper section of the template, is the parapet wall section.

The two template sections cut out, one for the wall front & the other for the rear wall.

Glue these on to card. Here we’ve used a glue stick to glue one of the templates on to Greyboard Card. Allow time for the glue to set.

Once the glue has set, cut the wall sections out from the card.

Mark out & cut a section of Ashlars wall stone sheet to fit the front wall section up to the bottom of the grey band on the wall baselayer. Then glue the Ashlars sheet onto the baselayer as shown right. Again use a glue stick such as Pritt Stick to glue the stone wall sheet to the baselayer.

Now apply Roket Card Glue to the rear of the base layer as shown on the right.

Next glue the rear wall base layer wall on to the rear side of the front baselayer wall as shown on the right. Make sure the top grey band sections of the base layer wall section are both at the top of the wall.

Next we move on to the raised stone ledge strip. Cut the template for the ledge strip from the template sheet. Glue the cut template strip on to card & allow to dry. Once the glue has set, cut the ledge strip base layer out. Using the brick sheet ledge sheet as a template, cut out from the brick sheet & place over the Ashlars sheet & mark out the ledge strip. Now cut out the Ashlars stone ledge strip. You should now have the pieces as shown in the photo right.

Now glue & place the ledge baselayer as shown in the photo right, centrally on the rear of the Ashlars strip. 

Glue & fold the remaining sides of the stone ledge down on to the rear of the baselayer strip to complete the wrapping.

Next cut another strip of Ashlars stone sheet to cover the grey band section of the baselayer. The joint line between the two sections of the Ashlars sheets on the wall will be used as a guide line to aline the stone strip layer. The orange arrows mark out the joint line.

Now glue & place the stone ledge strip on top of the joint line as shown in the photo right.

Next wemove on to the front wall foot section & the top rear wall sections. Cut out the template layers for these two parts from the template layer sheet & glue on to Greyboard card. Once the glue has set, cut out the two sections as shown right.

Now using the brick sheet texture parts as a template, cut & mark out the wall top & wall foot sections from the Ashlars stone wall sheet. Cut them big enough so that they’ll wrap over the top & bottom edges of the baselayer pieces. 

Glue & wrap the Ashlars stone sections onto the base layers as shown right.

Glue the rear side of the foot section wall & place onto the bottom of the wall as shown right. Use the Roket Card Glue for this.

Turn the wall over & glue the rear side of the top wall section wall & place onto the top of the wall as shown right. Again use the Roket Card Glue for this.

From the modern brick retaining wall kit, cut out the coping stone base layer from the base layer sheet. Glue on to Greyboard Card. Once the glue has set, cut the coping stone baselayer out from the greyboard card as shown right. You’ll also need to cut out the coping stone texture from the modern brick wall sheet.

Using the glue stick, apply glue to the non printed side of the coping stone wrap, then place the base layer centrally on to the glued side of the coping stone wrap. Then proceed to wrap the coping stone wrap layer around the base layer as shown.

Using Roket Card Glue, apply glue to the rear non printed side of the wall. Carefully place the wall against the wood frame work for the upper layer. Make sure that the rear upper wall bottom edge is sitting flush & level with the the top deck of the upper level wooden frame work.

Using Roket Card Glue, apply glue to the rear non printed side of the wall. Carefully place the wall against the wood frame work for the upper layer. Make sure that the rear upper wall bottom edge is sitting flush & level with the the top deck of the upper level wooden frame work.

You’ll notice in the photo right we’ve also added a extra bit of walling running into the tunnel. This as the footer wall section added to match the rest of the wall. Any slight gaps between the bottom of the wall & the baseboard top can be filled in with ballast or scenic scatters etc.

Either side of the tunnels & on the end of the central wall we added an extra section of walling to represent a buttress/pillar. This was done by using the base layer again from the modern wall kit wrapping the stone Ashlars sheet. We’ve highlighted in orange, one of the buttress/pillar sections.

Next job is to add the pillar coping stones. In the modern brick wall kit there is two different sizes of pillar coping stone tops. We’ve highlighted them in orange in the photo right. We’ll be using the larger longer ones.

As before, cut out the template for the coping stone pillar tops & glue on to Greyboard Card. Once the glue has set, cut the base layer out from the the Greyboard Card. Then proceed to cut the coping stone pillar top wrap out, then glue & wrap the base layer.

Glue the pillar coping stone to the top of the pillar as shown right. 

For the area’s such a cross the top of the tunnel, smaller wall sections were constructed & glued into place. Area’s such as inside the tunnel, additional sections of walling was also constructed & glued into place. To finish off the other wall sections, coping stone sections were made & glued into place. One area to mention is the angled joint as shown in the second photo right. The ends of the coping stone tops being cut to form an angled joint as highlighted in the orange circle. 

The photos right show the completed walling all in place viewed from the yard side. You’ll notice in the second photo right, we’ve added the Trackside/Harbour steps to add scenic intrest.

The photos right show the completed walling from the Factory yard top side. For the yard surface we’ve used the concrete weathered hardstanding sheets. These can be found in the club shoop for you to buy with your club points & download & print off. Also available over on Scalemodelscenery.co.uk as a pack of five pre-printed sheets. 

For additional scenic intrest, we’ve also added some coarse green turf along the bottom edge of the wall to represent weeds growing along the bottom edge of the wall. We’ve highlighted these in the orange circle in the photo right.