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Layout In A Box – Demo Micro Layout Project (part 19) Assembly of the LX035-OO Concrete Trunking Kit & Installing

Scale Model Scenery Demo Micro Layout Project – Assembly of the LX035-OO Concrete Trunking Kit & Installation 

Part Nineteen

Following on from part eighteen of this series in which we looked at installing our AX021-OO bonfire kit, we now look at another popular kit from our range. The LX035-OO Concrete Trunking Kit has been in our range for a few years now, is a popular item seen on many model railway layouts. In this article we’ll look at the kit, assembly & installation. Concrete trunking is a feature of modern day railways, which looking in my refferance books began to appear to UK railways around the early 1960’s. If you know of the exact year the concrete cable trunking was first used on the UK railways, please let us know in the comment section below please.  

The LX035-OO Concrete Truking kit can be found here in webshop:

Time to cracking on with the assembly of the LX035-OO kit.

Lets get started…

Lets get started…

Tools you’ll need are:

  • Cutting Mat
  • Craft knife with new blade
  • Deluxe Materials Roket Card Glue
  • Steel ruler for use as a cutting guide edge
  • Tweezers
  • Sanding stick (Cosmetic nail file sanding stick will do)
  • Glue stick such as Pritt Stick or similar

The LX035-OO kit builds up to 144cm (4ft 9in) of straight trunking & includes 8 x T Junction sections. It can be built up in 28cm long strips or in individual 13mm (1m in OO scale) sections. It comes complete with removable lids and with realistic cabling details on the inside. The kit comes with full instructions & sheet of kit parts. The kit can be left unpainted which looks like concrete finish when assembled or painted in a concrete coloured paint. 

The sheet of parts that come in the kit can be seen in the photo opposite right. We’ve highlighted the sections that make up one section of concrete trunking. The parts are number up as thus:

  1. Base Section
  2. Side Sections
  3. Sub Base Sections
  4. Top Lid Section 

Cut & remove the base section from the parts sheet. Any pips that held the part on the sheet need to be cut or sanded back flush with the part edge. Now cut & remove one of the side sections & again any pips that aren’t flush with the part edge, cut or sand flush with the part edge.

Carefully insert the slab/tab sections into each other, so that both pieces form a right angle L shape as shown right. Run a bead of Roket Card glue along the inside of the joint as arrowed in the photo right. Use some blocks or similar to help keep the upright section upright whilst the glue sets.

Cut & remove one of the sub base sections & glue on to the base of section (butted up to the side wall section as shown here). Again use Roket Card Glue to glue this.

Cut & remove the remaining sub base sections & glue on to the top of the other sub base section as shown right (butted up to the side wall section as shown here). Again use Roket Card Glue to glue this.

Option here if you so wish is to glue the second sub base layer on to the top lid section to form a sort of T shape. The choice either way is yours as to which you go for.

If you are wanting to model the trunking with some lids missing, broken or open, then now is the time to add the optional cabling texture. Cut & remove one section of cabling from the parts/instruction sheet. We’ve highlighted one cable section in the photo right.  

Once the cable texture has been cut & removed from the parts sheet, turn the cable texture over & apply glue to it using Pritt Stick or similar.

Place the glued cable texture inside the tunking as shown in the photo right.

We want to replicate some of the trunking with the lids off or missing. Cut and remove the top lids section from the parts sheet. Again any pips on the edges, cut or sand flush with the edge section. Here we’ve cut a couple of sections of the lid away from the top lid section.

The sections arrowed are glued on to the trunking trough to leave a gap between them.

The remaining top lid section is cut in half along it’s middle joint section.

The two top lid setions are then glued resting on top of the other lids as shown on the right, to replicate the lids pulled back by track workers or those naughty lineside cable thieves! 

The Junction box sections assemble in the same way as the trunking. The photo right shows the parts highlighted on the parts sheet that make up one junction box section. The parts on it are as follows:

  1. Base Section
  2. Side sections
  3. Sub Base Sections
  4. Top Lid Section

Cut & remove the long rear side wall section & also the base section from the parts sheet. Remove any pips from the part edges either by cutting or sanding flush. Place the tab on the bottom edge of the side section, into the slot section of the base section. Then apply a bead of glue along the inside edge as shown in the photo right.

Next cut & remove the two sub base sections from the parts sheet, glue these together so they form a stack of two. Now glue these on to the base section so they butt up against the upright rear side wall section.

Then cut & remove the two side sections & glue them into place as shown in thhe two photos right. To get them to curve, bend them over the round barrel of the craft knife to match the curve radius of the junction box side section.

If leaving the lid off, cut & remove the junction box cable sections form the parts/instruction sheet. Then glue into place on the inside of the trunking junction box section. We’ve highlighted the junction box cable texture sections in the photo right.

Now Cut & remove the junction box lid section from the parts sheet & glue into place to complete the junction box.


To install the trunking, for areas of the layout that haven’t been fitted with scenic materials, simply applue Roket Card Glue or similar to the underside of the trunking & place into the desired postion. Then build up the scatter materials up either side of the truking to give the impression the trunking has been set into the ground.

For sceniced areas that have already been done, lay the completed tunking section lineside on the area you want to fit it. Use a flat bladed screwdriver & drag it along side the trunking to mark out the positions of both sides. 

Next scrape away & remove the scenic material between the two marker lines. The run a vacuum over it to remove the now loose material. You’ll now have a trench section to glue & fit the trunking into. 

Apply glue to the underside of the trunking & fit into the section cleared of scenic material. Once happy all looks okay, reapply scenic scatter materials to further embed the trunking into the scene.

For curved sections, the trunking can be easily bent by hand to follow curves & also up & down undulations too!


If using Train-Tech Sensor Signals or similar, use the trunking to carry the signal wires above the baseboard inside the concrete trunking, Simply omit the two sub base sections when assembling the concrete trunking. This will give enough depth & width to take the single core link wire between the signals, or smaller gauge wires for other brand signals. The lid section can be temporarily held in place using Deluxe Materials Taxy Wax.

Happy modelling 

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