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Layout In A Box – Demo Micro Layout Project (part 23 ) Chain Linking Line Side Fencing

Scale Model Scenery Demo Micro Layout Project – Chain Link Security Fencing

Part Twenty Three

Following on from part twenty two of this series, in which we looked at installing our roller shutter doors to the loco shed. We now move on to making the depot area secure with the installation of chain link security fencing. The kit we’ll be looking at today is the LX007-OO Chain link Security Fence kit. It’s also available in 1:72 Scale as well. The N Gauge version which many have been asking when it’ll be back in stock, will be re-released once we have sourced a suitable scale appearance meshing material for it. The original N gauge meshing is no longer made & we’re in the process of finding a suitable mesh. The LX007-OO is available in two options, Crank top posts with the top barb wire & also straight top posts without the top barb wire. The kit also includes gates as well, which we’ll be using in this project. We’ve opted for the straight top posts for our yard scene on this layout.

The kit will build over 100cm long section of fencing, & comes with two small gates & two large gates, fine black / grey nylon mesh for the chain link. Crank-top version also includes fishing line to represent the barbed wire. The posts are supplied unpainted & for the crank top version includes pre cut holes for the top wires. 

The cranktop version can be seen in the photo below.


Lets get started…

Tools you’ll need are:

  • Craft knife with new sharp blade
  • Steel ruler for measuring & to act as a cutting guide
  • Deluxe Materials Super Phatic Glue or similar
  • Drill with suitable sized drill bit for the fence post mounting points
  • Primer paint (Cheap car grey aerosol paint can will do)
  • Small flat paint brush
  • Concrete coloured paint for the posts
  • Paint of your choice for the gates

In the photo right can be seen the kit contents, as mentioned above with this being the straight top post version this one comes with out the top wires.

First job is to give the posts & gates a coat of primer paint. A couple of quick passes work with a car primer paint aerosol can over the parts whilst still on the parts sheet, then allow time for the paint to dry. With it being primer paint dosen’t take long to dry.

Next we paint the posts in a concrete colour. The paint we’re using is Woodland Scenics Concrete coloured paint part number ST1454 suitable for brush on application. other concrete coloured paints are available from other manufacturers, so choose what is right for your needs & budget.

The posts were then given two thin even coats of Woodland Scenics concrete paint, again whilst still on the parts sheet for easy of handling. In the photo right can be seen the posts after painting.

Whilst the paint was drying on the fence posts, attention was then turned to the gates. These have been painted using the Woodland Scenics Steel Rail coloured paint pen. This paint pen you’ll have seen in previous articles with in this Layout in a Box Series. The paint dries with in a few minutes so ideal for those modelling jobs when time is limited.

Now for the gate way into the yard, i’ve set the distance wider than the two bigger gates supplied with the kit. This is to allow clearance for the rolling stock running through the pointwork at the yard entrance. So a bit of kit alteration is being done here, with the extention of one of the bigger gates. To do this i’ve used one of the smaller gates & cut off the rear hinges on the small gate. The cut sections then being sanded flush & touched up with the steel rail paint pen. The small gate then being glued (using Roket card glue or Super Phatic glue) on to locking bar, non hinge end of the large gate. This gives us a the longer gate needed for this particular gateway.

The photo right shows the two gate sections arrowed, that will be joined together to form a longer gate.

Next the holes are then drilled for the fence posts to be fitted into. The drill hole size needed is quoted within the supplied kit instructions. Drill the post holes around 30mm apart as shown in the photo right.

Now carefully cut the fence posts off the parts sheet. The bottom section on the posts, is slightly smaller in diameter than the rest of the posts. This is the built in mounting peg, apply PVA glue, or Super Phatic glue or similar to the mounting peg part of the post. Then insert the glued post into the drilled hole, then repeat the process with the other posts. Make sure the posts all face the same way as shown in the photo right. 

To add more scenic interest, insert on post at a slight angle to replicate it having being hit or damaged by a vehicle or possibly ground subsidence. Having worked on many industrial locations in my younger days I’ve seen many a less pefect chainlink fence over the years, with posts knocked at angles, broken & fallen over!   

The gate posts were then installed next by drilling another hole very close to the installed fence post. The gatepost then being glued on it’s mounting peg & also up along the side that will face & touch the installed gate post. Carefully insert the gatepost making sure it butts up the fence post as shown in the photo right. Allow time for the glue to set. 

Next apply a small spot of glue on to the the two small sections stick out from the post, these are the gate hinges. Then carefully place the gate hinges onto gate post hinges & allow time for the glue to set. It’s best to support the gate whilst the glue sets at this stage.

You’ll also notice in the photo right, we’ve fitted the 45 degree angle end supports. These are simply glued at both ends & placed against the post & onto the ground, once the glue has dried will give additional support to the end fence post & gate post.

Moving on to the marking out & cutting of the fence & gate meshing. To make things easier for marking out, our top tip is to use parcel or masking tape.  

Unroll & layout the meshing material on a flat level surface. Next, stick the parcel tape in a straight line onto the parcel tape, making sure there are no kinks etc.

Measure the fence posts & decide how tall you want the chain link meshing to be. From the bottom edge of the parcel tape, mark out the height measurement, then draw a straight line to mark out where the meshing is to be cut. 

Place a steel ruler or straight edge & using a craft knife with a new sharpe blade, cut along the bottom edge of the parcel tape & also along the marked cut line. In the photo right can be seen me cutting along the marked cut line.

Having cut the tape/mesh to size, carefully peel the tape off the meshing to leave you with the correct size chain link mesh for your fence.

Now we move on to the gluing of the mesh chain link material on to the posts. Using an old flat bladed screwdriver or similar apply a small amount of super phatic glue or similar (you need a glue that will dry clear) on to the flat blade of the screwdriver. Starting at the bottom of the fence post, apply the glue up the post as shown in the photo right. Carefully place the mesh material onto the glued surface of the fence post & allow time for the glue to grab & set. Then proceed to move on to the next post & repeat the process. The mesh material needs to be taught enough so that it dosen’t sag between the two posts. Again allow time for the glue to grab & set before moving on to the next fence post. 

For the gates, apply a thin bead of super phatic glue onto the gate & carefully place a piece of mesh material cut to fit the gate, on to the glued surface of the gate. Allow time for the glue to set & dry. The bear minimum of glue should be used here. Next it’s a case of adding vegetation to help blend the fence into the scene, the photo right shows bushes & vegetation that have been planted along the bottom of both sides of the fence as well as growing through & up the fence. The fence posts can be further enhanced with weathering to help age them, & may be some litter from our litter sheets placed along the bottom of the fence.

We’ll look at the crank top fence post version of this kit in another article.  This concludes the build & installation of this kit.

Next part to follow of thi Layout in a Box series.


Happy modelling.

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  1. wicky0570

    As always, looks amazing. Another terrific tutorial and demonstration of the use of this highly detailed kit. Thank You.

    • Iain

      Many thanks Martin 🙂 More parts to this series coming, in process of sorting out some other behind the club scenes work & then we’ll be back on it 🙂

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