Kit Contents

The kit comes in a clear packet complete with instructions, two laser cut parts sheets. The parts that make up one section of concrete trunking is as follows: 

• Parts are shown in the photo opposite right as number one are the two vertical sides of the trunking.
• The part shown in the photo opposite right as number two is the bottom/base of the concrete trunking.
• The parts shown in the photo opposite right as number three are the two inner base sections
• The part shown in the photo opposite right as number 4 is the concrete lid sections

Carefully cut & release the parts from the parts sheet & lightly sand flush any pips off the part edges. Once cut & removed from the parts sheet they should be as shown in the photo opposite right.

• Parts are shown in the photo opposite right as number one are the two vertical sides of the trunking.
• The part shown in the photo opposite right as number two is the bottom/base of the concrete trunking.
• The parts shown in the photo opposite right as number three are the two inner base sections
• The part shown in the photo opposite right as number 4 is the concrete lid sections

• Take one of the inner base strips (parts labeled as number 3 in the previous photo above). Apply a bead of glue along one of the inner base strips as shown in the photo opposite right.

• Take the second inner base strip and place on to the glued strip to make a stack of two as shown in the photo opposite right. Make sure both parts sit true flush & square with each other.

• Next, take the bottom base section and apply glue along the center of the base section as shown in the photo opposite right.

• Now carefully place the glued stack of two inner base strips on to the glued bottom base section, as shown in the photo opposite right. Make sure the edges of the inner base section align up with the recess on the bottom base section as shown in the highlighted orange circle in the photo opposite right.

• Next, apply glue along the side of the assembly as shown in the photo opposite right.

• Take one of the long side parts, & insert it into the base assembly as shown in the photo opposite right. Make sure the tabs on the side parts fit squarely between the tabs on the base. as shown in the photo opposite right. Wipe away any excess glue. 

• Next, take another of the long side parts, & as before, & insert it into the base assembly on the opposite side as shown in the photo opposite right. Make sure the tabs on the side parts fit squarely between the tabs on the base. as shown in the photo opposite right. Wipe away any excess glue. We now have a U shaped channel.

• Now cut out one of the printed cable runs from the instruction sheet. Use a steel ruler & craft knife to do this to give a clean edge cut.

• Glue & stick the cable printed texture inside the trunking as shown in the photo opposite right.

• Next, is the fitting of the concrete lids. The concrete lids have the lid section joint lines laser engraved on one side, this laser engraved side faces upwards.

• As per the real thing, some concrete lineside trunking has the lids missing, removed to one side for access to the cable, or damaged. This can be easily replicated, by cutting the lid section as shown in the photo opposite right.

• Here we’ve cut the lid section down into shorter sections & a single section. 

• Apply a thin bead of glue along the top of the two sides of the trunking, then fit the lid sections into place. Make sure that the lid sections sit square & flush with the trunking sides.

• Here, we’ve left some gaps to expose the cable run inside the trunking. We’ve also glued one lid into a position on top of the other lids to represent or suggest work has been taking place on the cables. 

• The following parts make up one T-Junction. These are as follows:
• 1 The lid section
• 2 the internal spacers
• 3 the base/bottom section
• 4 the straight  rear edge side
• 5 the two front short sides 

• We’ll start by cutting & removing the bottom base section & the two internal spacer sections from the parts sheet.

• Apply glue to one of the internal spacers & stick the second internal space on to the glued one to form a stack of two. Make sure that all the edges are aligned up & square. Next, apply glue on the bottom/base section piece & stick the stack of two internal spaces on it. Make sure that the internal spacer stack sits centrally upon the bottom/base section piece. as shown in the photo opposite right.

• Next, cut & remove the straight edge side section piece. Apply glue to the two tab parts of the base/bottom section on the straight side section. Then fit the straight edge side as shown in the photo opposite right. 

• Cut & remove the two smaller front side pieces from the parts sheet.

• These two front pieces need to be bent to fit the curved front sides of the T-junction. To bend the pieces, use something like the round barrel handle of a craft knife, bend the front side pieces around the barrel of the craft knife handle. Test fit on the T-Junction base & adjust the bend on the front side pieces to suit.

• Glue & fit the front side piece into place as shown in the photo opposite right.

• Repeat the procedure: Glue & fit the front side piece into place as shown in the photo opposite right. This completes the fitting of the three side pieces of the T-Junction. If leaving the lid off, cut out the printed T-Junction cable texture & like the straight trunking section glue into place inside the T-Junction piece.

• Apply a thin bead of glue on each of the three side top edges. Carefully place the lid on top making sure it sits square on top of the T-Junction piece. 

Installing

To install the trunking, on our scene here, a section of ballast to the width & length to suit the trunking was removed. Apply glue to the underside of the trunking & stick it down on the section that has been cleared of ballast. Any bits that may need to be re-ballasted along the trunking run, apply PVA glue & sprinkle ballast on to the glue & allow time for the glue to set. Vacuum up any excess ballast after the glue has set.

Fit the t-junction pieces as needed, for example, to change the direction of the cable trunking run, to equipment boxes, signaling, etc. Combo the trunking kit with our orange UTX cable trunking for cable runs that need to cross under the track work. 

A further tip if using something like the Train-Tech Sensor Signals with the link wire between each signal. Omit the two internal spacer pieces from the inside of the trunking, this will then take the single-core signal link wire & allows it the wire to be hidden within the trunking as per the real thing.

For further reference photos, have a look online, in railway books, Youtube railway videos & of course observe the real thing next time you visit the real railways.

Happy modelling.