Train-Tech Signals – Part Two
Train-Tech Signals – Part Two
In part two, we now take a look at installing the Train-Tech Sensor Signal. The sensor signal comes already pre-assembled bar the ladder & safety cage, Phone & signal ID plate. These bits are included in the pack for the modeller to fit, which can be easily done in around 15 minutes or so. So to recap on part one, the Train-Tech signals will work on both on DC & DCC systems. The beauty of this is if you upgrade at some point to DCC to control your layout, the signals have built-in DCC accessory decoders. So soon as you power up the layout on DCC you can program the signal with a DCC address with minutes!
Below is an image overview of some of the key features of the sensor signal. A fully comprehensive instructions booklet is included with every signal.
Powering the sensor signal
There are two ways to connect these signals up to a power supply. They require a voltage of -16volts max & current of approx 0.05A. They should never be powered by an AC or unsmoothed DC supply! Train-Tech recommends supply for DC use is a Gaugemaster GMC-WM4 12V 1.25A Transformer power supply. Available here:
So for DC power supply (or if also wiring to a DCC power bus) cut along the two dotted mark lines on the prongs, & remove the excess prongs. Then solder two wires from your power supply or DCC power bus to the two small holes as shown in the two images below (before & after fitting).
For DCC only layouts you can, as shown above, use the two small power holes or as shown below, slide into the track. Thus taking its power from the DCC powered track. The two silver pad contact areas on the prongs touch the rails on the underside & take power directly from the rails. The image below shows a sensor signal fitted on DCC power supply.
What comes the pack.
In the supplied pack id the sensor signal, the layout link single core wire, instruction booklet (this covers other items in the Train-Tech range), Detail parts pack & also in the instruction booklet a set of signal ID plate numbers & letters for you to cut out & glue on to the signal ID plate.
The starter packs are very good value as they come with four signals as well as the other bits listed above but also includes a mimic switch too!
For those on a tight budget have a look at the kit self-build range of signals, these come with all the parts but need to be assembled by the modeller. Currently, the sensor signals aren’t in the kit build range.
Layout Link
The clever part of this system is that it uses a single wire to link the signals together, which allows the signals, track sensors, Mimic switches to all communicate with each other. This is known as the link wire or Layout Link as Train-Tech calls it. This gives automation of the signaling & lets you concentrate on driving the trains.
One of the items in the Layout Link series is the level crossing lights. With the single link wire connected to a trackside sensor to the level crossing lights, gives fully automatic working lights & warning sound. This is triggered by the train passing the sensor which then sets off the lights & warning alarm sound. The image below shows a basic layout set up with Train-Tech Sensor signals & a level crossing with a trackside sensor.
You’ll also notice in the image a mimic panel which shows the status of the signals, position of the trains etc. Again a single link wire from the track sensors & signal sensors connects to the mimic switches. The mimic switches need to be connected to a 12v -16v smoothed DC power supply.
How it works
Once the signals have been installed and a link wire fitted between each signal you’re good to go. In the diagram below shows a loco traveling along the track. As the loco passes the first signal, that signal turns to red. As the loco proceeds along passing the other signals, the signals turn to red but the signals behind will start to run through the sequence. So in the case of the diagram, the loco has passed four signals. The one behind the loco shows red to protect the block section the loco is in from other trains behind.
The next section back shows yellow to warn that the next signal is on red. If four aspect signals are being used then the next signal will show double yellow & the one behind that green. The signal in front of the loco in the diagram shows green, soon as the loco passes this signal it to will change to red. The third signal back will now change from double yellow to green, the second signal back will now change from single yellow to double yellow…& so on.
Train tech also now do a 4 Aspect outer signal which includes flashing aspects for high-speed lines, though only available in their standard non-sensor signal range at the time of writing.
If a signal is connected to a mimic switch on both DC & DCC controlled layouts, then the signal can be manually set to red & the other signals behind will change to the appropriate corresponding aspects. If using DCC then you can simply call the signal DCC address up & change to red etc, remotely via the DCC controller key pad.
Installing the signal (On DCC)
As the layout is DCC controlled that we are installing the sensor signal, we are going to use the power supply from the track. The track is already ballasted, so we need to mark out what area of ballast to remove. The signal is temporarily placed on top of the tracks (power turned off of course). The area where the prongs will be is marked out.
Next scrape & clear away the ballast for the signal & vacuum up the loose ballast.
Insert the power pick up prongs under the rails. The two silver pad contact areas should make contact with the underside of the rails. The U shape area of the prongs which we’ve marked with an orange line is how far the signal should be inserted under the rails.
Next power up the layout. The signal will light up. The one installed here has the optional feather route indicator lights. As the layout is on DCC, call up DCC accessory address number 3 (Default DCC address on all DCC decoders when bought brand new). Change direction & the signal will change accordingly.
If using DC connect the signal up to a mimic switch, the signal can be changed by flicking the switch on the mimic switch.
Tip
For a more reliable power connection, solder the two contact pads to the rails on the two areas we’ve marked in orange circles. This will give a reliable power connection. Clean the sides of the rails prior to soldering first. The prongs & the soldered connections can then be painted to blend in or cover with ballast.
Power up again & test to make sure all is working as it should.
Now fit the extra supplied detailed parts that come with the signal. These can be easily glued in place with liquid poly cement plastic glue. For the phone box & signal, ID plate use the likes of a super phatic (superglue) or similar, to glue into place on the metal post.
Programming the signal with a DCC address
To program the signal a DCC address is very easy to do. If you operate your points on DCC, then you can give the signal the same address as the points if you so wish or whatever DCC address you want.
On the base of the signal is two small contact pads. These are learn contacts for the built-in DCC decoder. In the image on the right, you can see the two learn contacts arrowed.
Take a short bit of wire & make it into a U shape. Touch the two learn contacts briefly till the lights on the signal start to flash. This shows that the signal is now in DCC programming mode & is awaiting it’s new DCC address.
Call up an accessory address on the DCC controller. In this case, we are using number 26 which is what is used to control the points after the signal.
Press the direction button to change the direction or the points, the lights stop flashing & that’s it! The signal is now programmed & will operate every time the address number 26 is called up.
For programming, the feather signal is just as easy. This time as before touch the two learning contact pads as before with the short bit of wire. But soon as the lights start to flash on the signal, touch the contacts again. The lights on the signal stop flashing but the feather lights now flash.
This time we’ll give it a different address so we’ll give it address number 25 for this example. As before, call up accessory address 25.
Change direction, the feather lights stop flashing & that’s it the feather lights are now programmed with address number 25.
You can at any time change the signal DCC address to any address number you wish. You don’t need to put the decoder on a programming track as it can be programmed in situ, nor do you have to call up accessory address programming mode on the controller. It’s been made as simple & easy as possible to program a DCC address.
In part 3 we’ll look at how easy it is to link the signal to another signal to create a working block section.
Happy modelling.
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